97 - Jeb Dunnuck
"Darker currants, dark chocolate, graphite, and espresso notes all emerge from the beautifully textured, dense, full-bodied, powerful 2023 M. Etain. Based on 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec, 5% Merlot, and 3% Petit Verdot from the J.J. Cohn Vineyard and aged 18 months in 100% French oak (60% new), it has ample mid-palate depth, ripe yet polished and certainly present tannins, integrated acidity, and a great finish. This absolutely gorgeous wine will keep for 30 years if you're so inclined. Drink 2025-2055."
h a r v e s t n o t e s
Vineyard Manager Domenick Bianco:
The 2023 season at JJ Cohn began with record-breaking winter rainfall. A series of atmospheric river events brought one of the wettest starts to a growing season in recent memory. Rain through March fully recharged soil profiles and ended our multi-year drought. Rains persisted into late March, delaying budbreak slightly and leaving soils saturated well into spring.
The cooler, wet spring, encouraged even budbreak and early shoot growth, while deep soil moisture reduced irrigation needs well into the season and allowed for us to grow beautiful cover crops. There were no significant frost events, allowing for a uniform and healthy start to canopy development. Dense growth and high humidity required early-season focus on canopy work and mildew prevention, but the vineyard remained in excellent condition throughout and no issues presented themselves.
Summer brought steady, moderate warmth. While a few isolated days reached or exceeded 100°F, the vineyard avoided the kind of prolonged heat spells that often define Napa vintages in the modern era. The vineyard held up perfectly through the season and into harvest. Irrigation demands were low during the summer months. Fruit set was above average, which required more diligence during the thinning windows, to achieve quality and balance on a vine-by-vine basis.
Harvest began on October 4 and concluded on October 17. While this was a few weeks later than the drought-era vintages of recent years, it remained well within historical averages.
There were no major weather events which forced our hands—so harvest decisions could be made entirely based on fruit development and flavor, not weather pressure. Fruit was picked at full physiological ripeness. Yields came in slightly above average.
2023 was a drought-ending, low-stress season marked by patience, precision, and restraint.
t a s t i n g n o t e s
Winemaker Celia Welch writes of the 2023 M. Étain:
A long season of moderate temperatures and ideal ripening conditions manifests itself in this very dark, perfumed, complex Cabernet blend. Aromas of ripe blue and purple fruits are supported by vanilla and spice notes from the new French oak. On the palate, the wine offers a broad, smooth, full-bodied texture, with the tannins presenting as heavy velvet.
Although this wine is clearly going to improve over the next 5 to 15 years, its sense of gravitas adds balance to the lifted, perfumed berry notes that dominate the palate expression.
